history of fashion phd

institut FRANÇAIS de la MODE

« Fashion Theories and Practice » PhD Studies Program.

« Fashion Theories and Practice » PhD Studies Program

Practical information, faculty members, how to apply.

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IFM and Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne University have jointly devised a doctoral program entirely dedicated to fashion and luxury. This unique program entitled « Fashion Theories and Practice » offers a truly multidisciplinary approach (management, history, art history, law, design, aesthetics, geography, political sciences) applied to the fashion and luxury sector.

Applying for a PhD is no light matter. On an intellectual level, it requires understanding and knowledge of what one wishes to demonstrate, and on a personal level, long term determination.

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Heir to both the Sorbonne and the Panthéon Law Faculty, Paris 1 University is one of the leading universities in the field of human and social sciences as well as law and economics.

Ranked 3rd best fashion school worldwide by The Business of Fashion, Institut Français de la Mode is a higher education institution whose research activities focus on the one hand on marketing and insights from social sciences in the areas of luxury, fashion and design, and on the other hand on the analysis of changes in the fields of production, consumption, distribution, international exchanges and lifestyle (fashion, textiles, design, luxury, perfume, cosmetics, food...).

The position of Paris as the world's fashion and haute couture capital has now found a unique academic extension with the creation of this doctoral studies program, offered jointly by two internationally renowned institutions, offering high-level education to all students wishing to prepare a thesis dedicated to fashion or luxury.

Each doctoral student, enrolled in one of the doctoral Schools at Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne (management, history, art history, law, design, aesthetics and art science) will follow specific and multidisciplinary training amounting to a total of 192 hours spread over the entire curriculum.

Comprising study days or weekly seminars held either at Institut Français de la Mode or at Paris 1, this course will cover the following topics:

Fashion sociology, philosophy and anthropology

This seminar will focus its attention on authors, classic and contemporary, for their contribution to the emergence of a specific academic field dedicated to fashion and luxury. The aim will be to examine influent classic texts, such as Adam Smith, Rousseau, Hume or Mandeville, and the corpus of social science texts, such as Durkheim, Tarde and Veblen, who made sense of fashion phenomena beyond clothing, through the prism of social differentiation or Bourdieu's « distinction ». To what extent is this scientific horizon problematically « impassable »?

Fashion management and economics

This seminar will take a broad approach to the theoretical and practical challenges facing fashion and luxury through social sciences and management sciences alike. It will deal with the challenges in the fashion and luxury industries' economic history (strategy, professional organization, business models); marketing (brand and supply management, customer experience in physical and on line sales points, customer relationships, distribution and internationalization models); consumption sociology; dimensions linked to the value chain, to the supply chain and to information systems; human resources; management control and finance.

Historiography and methodology of fashion history

The aim of this seminar is to present the historical scope of fashion, its research topics, its practical and theoretical horizons. The twelve sessions relate to two areas: the first will question the study of fashion and the creation of a narrative of its history via the sources available to the historian (images, texts and objects); the second will chart a fashion historiography via the different disciplinary milestones that have shaped the fashion studies landscape to this day. This seminar's various objectives are to offer up-to-date tools for analysis of the history of theoretical and practical thought on fashion and luxury, the sources from which this fashion history stems and an approach to fashion that cannot be at the expense of reflecting on the body, its appearances, its gestures and its personal care.

Legal approach and sustainable development

This seminar will be based on two separate components. The first will aim to outline intellectual property rights as a whole that might be of interest to activities related to fashion (trademark rights, patents, designs and models); the challenges in protecting them; their valuation. The second will concern the various legal, environmental and social aspects of sustainable development linked to the activities of the textiles and fashion industry's sector through corporate social responsibility policy and the tools necessary for its implementation.

Creation, arts, fashion aesthetics: innovative processes

This seminar will approach fashion from the perspective of contemporary creation, emerging arts and hybrid cultures, and will look into the following topics: Inventing stage costumes, Filming what is private: the pyjama in cinema, Street culture and street fashion, Analysis of fashion's queer practice, Fashion and digital, Fashions from elsewhere, What is in, what is out? Other study topics will also be offered such as: Staging and shows, What is an accessory?, Haute couture and rock/punk culture, Contemporary fashion and art.

Admissions are temporarily closed.

Application Requirements

Applying for a PhD is no light matter. On an intellectual level, it requires understanding and knowledge of what one wishes to demonstrate, and on a personal level, long-term determination.

The following requirements apply to Paris 1 doctoral schools:

• writing a 3-page research proposal on a unique and innovative topic, including significance of the research, resolution hypotheses, a discussion of the overall approach, methodological choices, literature framework, authors or textual documents, observation and analytical terrain;
• producing a brief bibliography-webography;
• establishing an estimated 3-year research timeline;
• producing proof of a Master's degree (M2) or equivalent, with GPA, especially for the dissertation, and with at least Upper Second honours;
• if possible, sharing significant previous research work (Master's dissertation, academic article, etc)

The applicant is responsible for choosing his PhD supervisor within

Paris 1 doctoral schools. He may approach a qualified professor or

lecturer, who remains free to accept or refuse the applicant's request.

Once they have agreed on the research topic, its scope, feasibility and timeline, the PhD supervisor and the applicant mutually commit to bringing the thesis to its conclusion by signing an academic contract and a PhD charter. They engage in a human relationship, full of mutual understanding and scientific rigor.

Completing a PhD requires full intellectual and moral commitment which has an impact on the applicant's personal life and professional prospects for at least three years. Before applying, applicants are advised to thoroughly evaluate the feasibility of the project, the time will be able to commit to it, and the human and professional benefits they expect to gain from it.

Admissions Process

Concerning your request for information or registration for a thesis, as part of the "doctoral programme", you must contact a doctoral school directly, depending on the discipline of your choice, specifying that you wish to carry out your thesis within the framework of the Institut Français de la Mode- University Paris 1 - Panthéon-Sorbonne agreement. The acceptance of your application is dependent on the decision of the doctoral school in which you are applying. Be sure to respect the deadlines, which will not be subject to any derogation. In addition, the entire administrative part will depend on the University of Paris 1 - Panthéon-Sorbonne, and, as a general rule, research seminars are held at the Institut français de la mode under the supervision of researcher-teachers attached to the University of Paris 1 or Institut Français de la Mode.

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In the groundbreaking Fashion Studies master’s program, you undertake the cultural analysis of fashion as dress, bodily practice, media, and industry. You hone your research and writing skills as you explore the visual and material dimensions of fashion and investigate their personal and political meanings in various contexts. Taking an interdisciplinary approach, you develop a critical understanding of the histories, theories, and knowledge production around fashion and its role in shaping bodies, identities, and social relations. Graduates work in diverse fields including the fashion industry, media, museums, and academia.

Program Highlights

Cultural analysis of fashion.

Develop a critical understanding of fashion as a cultural phenomenon and how it affects bodies, identities, social relations, cultural narratives, and local/global environments.

Hands-on Fashion Research

Engage with diverse sources and methods — from archival research to ethnography — to challenge “grand narratives” and uncover alternative histories of fashion.

Interdisciplinary Approach

Draw from material culture studies, media studies, gender studies, and post-colonial studies to examine the complex meanings of fashion in diverse cultural and historical contexts.

Specialized Study

Develop professional skills in fashion curation and fashion writing to prepare for diverse careers in fashion, from fashion media to museums.

Fashion Capital NYC

Draw on New York City’s museums, exhibitions, and public events and observe firsthand the streets, neighborhoods, and retail environments critical to the fashion system.

Access to Industry

Explore internships at fashion magazines, museums, and fashion companies including Elle , Harper’s Bazaar , the Museum at FIT, Ralph Lauren, and Hermès.

• Degree Master of Arts (MA)
• Format Full-time, on campus
• Duration 2 years

The curriculum challenges students to explore the interdisciplinary theories and methodologies that have shaped fashion studies and to contribute to the advancement of the field. Core and elective courses open up broad perspectives on fashion as a phenomenon, and its connections with design, production, consumption, mediation, imagination, embodiment, identity, history, and politics. Student-led projects, like the journal BIAS , offer students opportunities to publish work and collaborate with Parsons peers.

Career Paths

As critical thinkers with strong research and writing skills, graduates go on to pursue PhD degrees or careers at fashion magazines and media companies, including Rizzoli, Meredith, Vogue , W , Nylon , I-D , and InStyle . Some graduates are actively involved in teaching in higher education, while others work in museums, fashion archiving, and curation, or as consultants, researchers, merchandisers, buyers, and PR professionals in major fashion houses and corporations.

Discover what our students, alumni, and faculty are doing in NYC and worldwide.

Student Work

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You work with faculty who are recognized as leading scholars in the field, representing a wide range of research expertise in the histories and theories of fashion, including work on fashion, body, and identity; fashion media; fashion and everyday life; wardrobe and consumption practices; fashion and sustainability; fashion labor; fashion criticism; fashion curation; and more.

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Connect to the organizations, businesses, and entrepreneurs driving global creativity and commerce. In classes, internships, and extracurricular projects, you gain marketable problem-solving skills in sectors ranging from government and nonprofits to tech and creative industries.

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New York City’s thriving creative industry and cultural institutions are part of your Parsons education. Our Career Services Office is enmeshed in the art and design industries and can help you advance your career with industry-oriented internships. 

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Funds are earmarked for graduate travel, research, and work to support your study. Opportunities include paid teaching assistantships, research fellowships and assistantships (including ones offered throughout The New School), ample student employment, and other grants available to U.S. domestic and international students alike.

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Enjoy access to extensive resources including New School libraries, computer labs, archives, and studios, along with Parsons’ state-of-the-art Making Center, facilities offering a broad array of tools to support your creative and academic growth.

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The Cultural and Historical Studies Department at LCF is home to a ground-breaking collective of researchers and educators with expertise in the theory and history of fashion as a socioeconomic, cultural and political practice.

Our researchers

Programme Director of Cultural and Historical Studies

Caroline Stevenson

Professor in Fashion Cultures and Histories

Lecturer in Cultural and Historical Studies

Jay McCauley Bowstead

Course Leader and Research Coordinator in Cultural and Historical Studies

Serkan Delice

Lecturer Cultural and Historical Studies

Fenella Hitchcock

Course Leader MA Fashion Cultures and Histories

Felice McDowell

Course Leader Cultural and Historical Studies

Neil Kirkham

Teleica Kirkland

Senior Lecturer in Cultural and Historical Studies

Sara Chong Kwan

Nikola Mijovic

Anthony Sullivan

Liz Tregenza

Flavia Loscialpo

Liza Betts, Researcher and Lecturer of Fashion Cultures and Histories Charlie Athill, Lecturer in Cultural and Historical Studies Sina Shamsavari, Lecturer in Cultural and Historical Studies

London College of Fashion

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